Road Tripping Maine: Our New Favorite Places to Stay, Where to Eat and Fun Things To Do
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MARTHA'S VINEYARD: SUMMER DAYS IN EDGARTOWN
Get to the ferry early to claim a seat on the upper deck, rummage in your bag for your book and sunglasses, and then let out a deep breath. Your vacation officially starts as soon as the boat pulls away from port. Martha’s Vineyard, an island just off the coast of Cape Cod in Massachusetts is known for its magnificent beaches, picturesque harbors and historic, charming villages. Made up of six distinct towns, the Vineyard is much larger than its sophisticated, nearby rival island of Nantucket. Based in colonial Edgartown, DT365 shares our highlights for a few relaxing days at the beach.
Tripper Tips:
Renting a house…pick up provisions at Morning Glory Farm. In addition to delicious baked goods and beautiful produce they have an impressive array of cut flowers.
Another world…Take the Chappy Ferry from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick Island. Visit Japanese Mytoi Garden, Wasque Point, Leland Beach, Norton Beach, or Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge.
Craving some fried clams or a lobster roll…Skip the touristy Seafood Shanty and get fried clams to go at their take away stand, The Quarterdeck.
Way to go…book a ticket on the frequent ferries from Hyannis, (car reservations must be made well in advance) or avoid the summer traffic to the Cape and head to Quonset Point in Rhode Island to board the boat to Oaks Bluffs, an hour and a half fast ferry.
Stay: A short walk into town, check in to the Harbor View Hotel: a waterfront property overlooking the beach, Edgartown Lighthouse, and Chappaquiddick Island. Splurge on one of the cottages or stay in the main building. For those who prefer to be close to the beach, the Winnetu Oceanside Resort in nearby Katama is just a path away from South Beach, a beautiful stretch of sandy beach. Winnetu is great for families, with a kids program and tons of room options to accommodate all. For a quieter, more formal stay, check in to The Charlotte Inn, less beachy and reminiscent of an English country house.
Ride: Harbor View can arrange to have a bike delivered directly to the hotel, or rent a bike in town at Martha’s Bike Rentals or Edgartown Bicycles and Rentals. Make sure to request a basket to hold your towel and refreshments for the beach.
Morning Grub: Grab a coffee and some freshly made baked goods at Espresso Love. Or head to tiny diner Dock Street Coffee Shop, an island institution, for one of their breakfast sandwiches. I liked the shady terrace at Behind the Bookstore Café, located directly behind Edgartown Books with a eclectic, healthy menu and excellent coffees and teas.
Lunch at the Beach: Get a gourmet sandwich or salad to go before leaving Behind the Bookstore and ride your bike to South Beach for the day. Once out of town, follow the 4-mile flat bike path direct to the beach. If you have a car, or choose to take a taxi, Harbor View has beach chairs you can use. (Taxis are plentiful on the island.)
Wander: Spend the late afternoon walking around downtown Edgartown, in and out of the upscale shops, indulging in some fudge at Murdick’s or an ice cream at Mad Martha’s or Vineyard Scoops. Across from the Harbor View, walk out to the Lighthouse and then down the rocky, narrow beach, returning back by the streets and admiring the beautiful oceanfront homes and rows and rows of hydrangeas.
Dinner: I don’t usually order fried foods, but the wok fried whole lobster has quite a reputation at Atria, set in a classic New England house just on the edge of town. The restaurant is divided in two: upstairs is quieter; finer dining while downstairs is a casual cellar bar. Both offer the same menu, with the cellar only offering an extensive burger selection, considered some of the best on the island. And the star of the show—the lobster served whole atop buttery mashed potatoes and island greens—may just be one of the best lobsters I’ve ever had.
Day Two
Get Moving: Get back on your bike, proceeding cautiously out of town, till you get to the bike path heading towards Oak Bluffs. This is a longer ride, clocking in around 8 flat, easy miles. At the dividing line between the two towns, stop to watch the jumpers at “Jaws Bridge”, (The American Legion Memorial Bridge) made famous in the 1975 blockbuster film. Crowds gather to leap and cheer each other on--in direct defiance of the sign that says no jumping. Kayaking and paddle boarding can be organized right across the road on Sengekontacket Pond. Continue on, arriving at Methodist Campground, a cluster of charming multicolored gingerbread cottages surrounding an open-air Tabernacle dating back to 1879. It is surreal to see the different architecture; in direct contrast to the stately whaling mansions in Edgartown.
Lunch: I know I’m going to crave the Fried Green Tomato BLT for a long time from Slice of Life on Circuit Avenue, in the heart of Oak Bluffs’ main shopping street. Go ahead and order the truffle fries, you’ll burn it off on the bike ride back to Edgartown. Other popular spots in Oak bluffs include Nancy’s for seafood, Giordano’s for fried clams and pizza (take out only), and the Red Cat Kitchen for dinner.
Sweet Tooth: Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery serves their beloved donuts and apple fritters all day long at their bakery storefront, but the real action takes place starting at 7:30PM –till 1AM where people wait on line at the back door for hot, right out of the oven doughnuts. It’s become so popular that everyone refers to the bakery as Back Door Donuts. Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium has the best ice cream on the Vineyard served in their old fashioned charming store.
Stroll: Oaks Bluffs has a whole different feel than Edgartown, it’s touristy for sure, yet lively, it just feels like a summertime beachside town that could be down the Jersey Shore or at Delaware’s Dewey Beach complete with arcades, harbor side clam bars and old movie theaters. You must stop and watch the kids exuberantly grabbing for gold rings at the Flying Horses, the nations oldest platform carousel, designated a national landmark. Oak Bluffs has its own unique vibe and personality, the fun “cousin” to Edgartown’s elegant “aunt” and it’s worth visiting.
Dinner: The Port Hunter doesn’t take reservations, but it’s well worth the wait. Have one of their specialty cocktails and an appetizer at the bar or communal tables and soon you’ll be trading stories with your neighbors. The creative seasonal menu is locally sourced, and there’s a raw bar for oyster fans. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays starting at 10 pm, half the tables are cleared away to make way for live music sets. Don’t miss dining here!
Related Destinations
MAINE: ACTIVE DAY ON MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
Mount Desert Island, Maine (MDI) is a small gem of an island combining lakes, mountains, ocean, and the East Coast’s oldest national park, Acadia, into a single destination. Our good friend, Jon, travels to MDI every summer and knows all the best spots. Jon recommends you allot several days to fully explore the island, but offers these suggestions for what a perfect day might look like.
Tripper Tips:
Book well in advance… Acadia attracts tons of visitors in the summer months. Many families choose to stay at the Bar Harbor Inn or at the Harborside Hotel, Spa and Marina. For a quieter stay, try the Ullikana, a B&B overlooking Frenchman Bay or The Asticou Inn, located in Northeast Harbor.
When to Go…The peak summer season runs late June through Labor Day. Fall brings spectacular foliage and winter’s the time for excellent cross-country skiing.
Early Morning: You’ll thank yourself later for getting up at dawn to catch the sunrise on Cadillac Mountain, the highest peak on the East Coast at 1,532 feet. Enter the park near Bar Harbor, drive up the winding road, and join the blanket-wrapped masses to see the sunrise before anyone else in the United States. It’s a sight you’ll long remember. Make sure to check the exact time before you go, and give yourself an extra 20 minutes for the drive up the mountain.
Morning Meal: Once the sun is up, head into Bar Harbor for breakfast. Jordan’s Restaurant opens at 5am, and will welcome you (and local lobsterman) with friendly service and quality diner fare. If you can wait until 7am to eat, other more upscale options are Café This Way and Two Cats. Blueberry pancakes are a tradition for breakfast in MDI, but lobster eggs Benedict is quickly becoming another favorite. Eat well — you’re going to need the fuel.
Hit the Trails: One of Acadia National Park’s most beloved features is the 40+ miles of carriage roads. John D. Rockefeller spent thirty years supervising and financing the creation of a network of broken-stone roads free of motorized vehicles that make the park one of the most beautiful and bike-friendly destinations in the US. You can rent bikes at the Bar Harbor Bicycle Shop, then either drive or hop on the free Island Shuttle busses to Eagle Lake parking lot. You could bike around Eagle Lake (a 6 mile loop), or if you’re feeling adventurous, continue further to Jordan Pond House, which is famous for popovers and jam.
Scenic Road: Another option is to get back in your car after biking, re-enter the park near Bar Harbor, and drive the Park Loop Road — 27 miles of postcard-worthy Maine scenery. A park pass is needed, but the funds are an important part of maintaining Acadia’s beauty. You’ll want to pull over often to take pictures and explore some of the footpaths along the coast. Keep an eye out for Sand Beach (a rarity along a rocky Maine coastline), and Thunder Hole, where waves collide loudly with land.
Lunch: Next, head to the western half of the island, known as the “quiet side.” If you’re hungry, pull over at Mother’s Kitchen in Town Hill. It’s a small stand-alone building next to a hardware store, and serves popular gourmet sandwiches made with local, organic ingredients. Another option is to drive into Southwest Harbor and stop at either Eat-a-Pita (which has much more than pita, and offers outdoor seating) or Little Notch Café, which features artisanal breads, pastries, and pizza, all made expertly in their own bakery. (There is also a Little Notch Bakery outpost in Bar Harbor.)
Get moving: Next, it’s time to work off lunch with a hike and a swim. There are many great hikes in Acadia, from easy strolls along the shore to iron-rung trails like the Precipice and Beehive trails. (Not for the faint of heart) A good guidebook with maps and descriptions is essential. On your way out of Southwest Harbor, you could explore a good moderate trail by parking at the Echo Lake parking lot and hiking up the Acadia Mountain or St. Sauveur trails. These are loops that have the advantage of ending at Echo Lake so you can swim afterwards.
Stay Moving: Another option on the quiet side is to drive to the end of Beech Hill Road and hike the Beech Mountain Trail up to the fire tower, which is a good workout and offers summit views of the surrounding islands, or the Canada Cliffs trail, which has spectacular views of the Cranberry Islands and Echo Lake. Stay on the lookout for blueberries as you hike — in late July and early August, they are all along the trails.
Farm Market: Once you’re back in the car, you’ll pass Beech Hill Farm, a sustainable 73-acre farm run by the College of the Atlantic and offering great local vegetables, flowers, dairy, other organic goodies. You could then take a quick swim at nearby Long Pond (which also rents kayaks and canoes), or the smaller Somes Pond favored by locals.
Dinner: After a well-deserved nap, it’s time for dinner, and nothing says mid-coastal Maine like fresh lobster. There are many options for great lobster on the island. Two favorites are Beal’s in Southwest Harbor, which has a fun, family-friendly vibe overlooking the harbor, and Thurston’s in Bass Harbor, which added a full bar two years ago. Thurston’s serves IslandBound Treats’ excellent berry pies for dessert. You can’t go wrong with either, but be patient because the lines can be long and cooking lobster takes time.
After-Dinner Fun: Assuming you left room for ice cream (come on, you’re on vacation), swing by Mount Desert Island Ice Cream back in Bar Harbor. Their Maine Sea Salt Caramel ice cream is amazing, but they make many unusual gourmet flavors and gladly let you try samples. Then while exploring the town’s many shops, you could check out the newly restored Criterion Theater, built in 1932, which features movies, music, and more in a 1932 Art Deco setting, or play Bocce at the Lompoc Café and grab a local craft beer while you share highlights of your day on MDI.
Related Destinations
Montauk: Local Take
*Photographs by Car Pelleteri
Located on the eastern end of Long Island, at the tip of the South Fork, Montauk is home to beautiful beaches, world-class sport fishing and excellent surfing. No longer sleepy, Montauk has changed a lot in the last few years with the opening of new hotels, restaurants and late night hot spots. Yet, it still remains more authentic than the rest of the Hamptons. Our friends, Jamie and Steven, have been spending summer weekends together in Montauk for years, and here Jamie shares her favorite spots with DT365 for a perfect summer day.
Tripper Tips:
More tips from Jamie…
There's a SoulCycle in the old movie theatre if you're feeling sporty. Want to go paddle boarding? Head to Fort Pond by The Puff and Putt miniature golf. You can rent paddle boards, kayaks and sail boats there. Another good place to rent longboards, paddle-boards and bicycles is at Air and Speed Surf Shop. They also offer surfing lessons.
Have a house and want to stay in? Stock up at the butcher section at Herb’s, a Montauk classic that’s been around forever—or forget cooking and get their fried chicken and a bunch of homemade sides to go with it!
Night Drive: Night Drive: If you get out late, Jamie recommends heading to The Inlet on East Lake drive, just past the airport. “They have fresh sushi, an amazing artichoke appetizer and some of the best-grilled fish tacos outside of LA. If you can make it for sunset, it’s one of the few west-facing restaurants. The view is spectacular overlooking the inlet between Gosman's and Gin beach.”
Morning: Start your day in the sand at Ditch Plains Beach. Grab a coffee from the Ditch Witch and watch the morning surfers. After, try a class at Love, my favorite yoga studio or just head to Naturally Good for their scrambled tofu wrap. Make sure to get extra fresh salsa. (They also have great juices and smoothies.) Sit in the back garden at the picnic tables and chill. Next-door to Love Yoga is a new micro brew coffee shop called Left Hand if you need another morning fix.
Other Spots: We also like Goldberg's for amazing bagels and lox, and Joni’s for healthy breakfast wraps and smoothies. (Cash only.) Happy Bowl's on 27 has delicious Acai bowls, or pick up some cold pressed, organic juice at Montauk Juice Factory. Be prepared to wait on line everywhere you go.
Town: Not much to do in town except walk around and look at the local T-shirt stores. My favorite is called Local Knit. Nate is the sales guy there and he's sweet and chill. (If you want to really shop, brave the traffic on 27 and head to Amagansett, East Hampton, or Sag Harbor.) There's a great small spa called Deborah Thompson Day Spa in the middle of town. Don’t miss the grape stem facial with either Deborah or Amy; it may be the best I've ever had.
Sun and Sand: The beach at Kirk Beach by the IGA supermarket is really nice. You can park almost anywhere and there's no hassle. Or head back to Ditch Plains, my favorite beach. Ditch reminds me so much of my life in Manhattan Beach, all the people have known each other forever and chat like family.
Seafood Lunch: Both the Topside or Inlet Cafe at Gosman's Dock are phenomenal. The raw bar is maybe the best around. Look for Little Linda who is sometimes the bartender and sometimes the waitress. Grab a bloody Mary and hang out for a while and watch the boats come in and out. Even if you're not cooking dinner at home, treat yourself to a walk through Gosman's market--all the pies are fresh baked, the produce is locally grown and the fish is right off the boat! And the lobster salad is the best ever! Buy a pound and some hot dog buns and you’ve got DIY lobster rolls.
Hopping Lunch: Then there's Navy Beach, if you’re looking for more of a scene. Martine is the Maître d’, he's a cute roly- poly guy with a tiny little curly ponytail. Sit in the back on the beanbags and listen to the live music.
Sunset Aperitifs: For drinks before dinner head to the Crow's Nest. It's right off 27 on the way to the lighthouse. There's a boat in front and it's right on Old West Lake Drive. Go down past the restaurant to the small beach, sprawl on a lounge and have some rosé. It’s one of my favorite summer places! Other sunset spots are: The Inlet, The Montauket, Navy Beach, and Duryea's Lobster Deck.
Dinner: New this season, we’re digging the small plates and delicious cocktails at Flagship, from father-and-son team Eric and Adam Miller. One of my favorite restaurants is South Edison right in town. They have some of the best food in Montauk, everything from seafood to steak. It’s low key and delicious. For those who just love eating with an ocean view check out Scarpetta or Tillie’s at Gurneys. On our list to try is Arbor and Grey Lady.
Late Night: If you're up for some nightlife, there are plenty of choices. The Surf Lodge attracts a great looking, young crowd and has live music concerts every weekend. Ruschmeyer's is another extremely popular spot; have a drink on the lawn under the lights and you’ll be transported back to summer days at camp.
Sweets: For a late night treat stop by Buddha Berry for frozen yogurt. The flavors are crazy and they offer more toppings than you could ever imagine. They also have a small sitting area out back, kick back and look up at the stars.
Stay: The big news has been the remodeling of Gurneys. It’s the most resort like hotel in the Hamptons, on a beautiful stretch of beach. Make sure to book one of the renovated rooms, as not all have been redone. The Montauk Yacht Club was also recently renovated, with many different room options. I’d suggest one of the bungalows, with decks overlooking the marina. The Montauk House is a boutique hotel right in town, a block from the ocean. Halfway between Amagansett and Montauk, White Sands, right off route 27 is simple, laid back, clean and quiet. And it’s right on the ocean—location, location, location.
Plus More: Our friend Amanda Russo Rubman just got back from a few days of Montauk R and R and shared these highlights from her stay. “We hiked at Camp Hero. There are multiple hiking trails, with picnic benches along the way, why not pack a picnic lunch? If you’re looking for a real journey, you can continue hiking to the Montauk Lighthouse. Fashionistas will enjoy the Leiber Museum, located on Judith Leiber’s property. (Check ahead as it’s only open a few days a week for a couple of hours.) You enter into a whimsical garden filled with bold sculptures, think Storm King on a much smaller scale. Inside the structure are thousands of Judith Leiber handbags and accessories, curated from her collection and private collectors. Post beach or for pre-dinner cocktails check out Lynn's Hula Hut. You may even find Lynn behind the bar.
* Special thanks to Car Pelleteri for her beautiful photographs.