On our first trip to Lisbon, we jumped on Tram 28, rode the Santa Justa Elevator, and went to a touristy dinner and show at Lisbon’s well know Club de Fado. In other words, we played tourists. You can read all about our previous trip here. Recently, we returned to Lisbon for a few days before heading to the beach in Comporta. We had no agenda or schedule, all of us in our group was happy to spend time wandering up and down the hilly, cobble-stoned streets, exploring the city’s nooks and alleyways, stopping only to eat or enjoy a Porto Tonic. Lisbon is a destination best explored by foot, so leave your heels at home and be ready to get your steps in!
Sleep: We checked into the Pousada de Lisboa, in the heart of the city on the picturesque Praco do Comercio. We loved the central location, excellent service, and luxurious, stylish rooms. It’s a historic building that delivers, and we highly recommend it. Around the corner from Pousada, but at a fraction of its price, the Alma Lusa is an excellent, less expensive, but stylish alternative. The last few years have seen a burst of boutique hotel openings. Other hotels we considered include The posh Palacio Belmonte, the minimalist Santa Clara 1728, Lumiares in Barrio Alto, Memmo Alfama for the views of Lisbon’s red roofs, and their sister property Memmo Principe Real in the very fashionable Principe Real neighborhood. Note: The Hotel Barrio Alto just reopened after a major expansion and renovation, doubling its former size.
Unique Spot: Go for a wander to LX Factory once a textile factory now converted into a long pedestrian hub filled with galleries, cafes, boutiques, and restaurants. Don’t miss the fabulous bookstore Ler Devagar and a slice of what some say is the best chocolate cake at Landeau. Enjoy small plates and a cocktail at Rio Maravilha with views of the Tagus River. LX is on the way to Belem and works nicely combined with a visit there.
Regal: We were skeptical when a friend raved about the National Coach Museum, but the collection of more than 70 of the world’s most significant horse-drawn carriages, many from around the world, was a unique and memorable experience. Some were elegant, others gaudy and over the top; but all a one of a kind glimpse of royal life. Allow for a short visit, one-hour tops.
Artful Views: On the way to Belem, just past the Coach Museum, visit the MAAT Museum, Lisbon’s Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology. Visit for the setting alone--the curvilinear design is striking, and there are photo opp’s galore from the rooftop terrace with fabulous views of the waterfront.
Best Bite: Don’t leave Lisbon without having a Pasteis De Nata, the city’s famous custard tart –originally invented by the nuns in Belem. Sample it in all its glory at Pasteis de Belem. Sure it’s touristy, but the tiles are beautiful; watching the bakers at work is fun, and the tart itself served warm makes it all worthwhile. Right across from the must-see Jeronimos Monastery.
Elegant Lunch: JNcQUOI is stylish and chic with delicious food served in a beautiful space on Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon’s main avenue. It’s also a mix of food and fashion, with a high-end store next door and a beautiful bar and gourmet deli on the lower level of the restaurant.
Gifts: Shop for souvenirs at A Vida Portuguesa, a concept store selling only artisanal products of Portuguese origin. There are now four spaces throughout the city, but we like the original shop in Chiado best.
Happy Hour: Have a drink with fantastic views of Lisbon amongst a cool crowd at Park, a clever use of a rooftop space in Barrio Alto, located above a parking garage. Good music, great views and caipirinha’s--what more could you ask for at sunset. To find Park, you have to walk through the actual garage and take the elevator to the highest level.
Seafood Feast: Get messy eating the freshest spider crab, rock lobster, and garlic shrimp at Lisbon’s most famous seafood restaurant, Cervejaria Ramiro. The nightly line is out the door, so go at lunch or do as we did and make a reservation for the earlier seating. Yes, it was way earlier than we wanted to dine, but when you leave, and the crowd is 100 deep, you won’t regret it.
The Buzz: Palacio Chiado is no ordinary food court, featuring two floors with different gastronomic concepts in the former residence of the Baron of Quintela—it’s all glamour and elegance. There’s a grand staircase, high design, and a lovely terrace to have some drinks. Perfect for a pre or after dinner cocktail.
Fashionable Address: Principe Real is currently the hottest neighborhood in Lisbon. Come to shop at its independent boutiques and some of the city’s trendiest spots for dinner or drinks, especially on Rua Dom Pedro V and around Praça das Flores.
Shop: Embaxiada, in Principe Real, is an old Moorish palace, restored gloriously and turned into a concept gallery devoted to young Portuguese designers. There are some sweet shops plus various restaurants and bars, but the building is the biggest draw. It’s a must-visit! Frescoes line the magnificent staircase, and architectural details liven up the shops. Amazing!
No Reservations: Ceviche reigns at La Cevicheria, made Instagram famous thanks to its giant wood octopus hanging from the ceiling. It’s tiny, and there will be a wait (go early or late), but who cares when you can order pisco sours at the street side window bar, happily sipping as you wait for your table. In Principe Real.
Local Tip: Experience Fado with Real Fado without having to commit to a touristy dinner. A local friend gave us the scoop about Real Fado with hour-long shows at three different locations in Lisbon on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday nights. His favorite spot is on Fridays, where it takes place in an underground cistern in the Principe Real Square, unique and unforgettable.
Grazing: Opposite the Cais do Sodré train station is the landmark Mercado de Ribeira home to the Time Out Market –a vast food court with chef-run stalls from some of Lisbon’s best restaurants, a beer kiosk, a place to sample port, and a branch of Santini, Lisbon’s best ice cream. There’s even a small A Vida Portuguesa shop to stock up on tins of sardines or beautiful soaps.
Local Suggestions: We didn’t have time to try all the restaurant suggestions from local friends, but we’re willing to share their notes…
Cantinho do Avillez – Great place for a casual lunch or dinner.
Bairro do Avillez, its four restaurants in one space, and especially recommend ‘Taberna’, ideal for a quick lunch or casual dinner grazing on the tapas menu.
Sea-me - Modern twist on Portuguese seafood
100 Maneiras Bistro - Modern Portuguese cuisine, lively atmosphere, ideal for dinner, Original 100 Maneiras restaurant also really good, but set menu.
Bica do Sapato - Modern cuisine on the Lisbon riverfront.
Travessa – Quiet but very cool place inside an old convent.
Gambrinus – One of the oldest establishments in town, good but old school decor and you’ll be the youngest person in there.
Cafe de Sao Bento – Best steak in Lisbon. Traditional place for dinner.
Sala de Corte, also for meat
If you are in Cascais my favorite place by the water there is Monte Mar
