Return Trip: A few years ago, we spent five days exploring some of the must-see sights in this sprawling, dynamic city. (see our itinerary here). This trip was about revisiting some favorites, wandering the trendy neighborhood of Roma Norte, and of course eating and drinking, in what is by far one of the worlds top food destinations. We choose to stay for a second time at the small and stylish Las Alcobas, where the location in upscale Polanco is the main draw. The staff is super friendly, the concierge team is excellent, and the rooms while small are smartly designed and state of the art. Polanco is often referred to as Mexico's Beverly Hills with both designer and eclectic boutiques, a lovely small park, and some of the city's top restaurants. While many question the city's safety, we felt safe walking around at all times.
Logistics: Mexico City is vast; there’s no way you can do and see everything in one visit. We can also guarantee you will experience tons of traffic so it is crucial to spend some time mapping out your activities and meals in location groupings. This way you can maximize your time rather than crisscrossing the city haphazardly. Here are three clusters for suggested itineraries.
#1: Base a half-day to full day in the Polanco area visiting The Jumex and Soumaya, two of the city’s top art museums located directly across the street from each other. (We prefer the Jumex’s collection.) One of the most visited sites in the city, the Anthropology Museum, is a must-see, with the architecture as impressive as the extensive collection of ancient Mexican artifacts. Visit Chapultepec Castle, a historical site and national museum with dazzling views of the entire city. The castle is at the top of Chapultepec Hill with beautiful gardens and impressive murals in its interiors. Allow some time to wander Polanco's streets popping in its boutique stores and stopping for a coffee at one of its cafes. There are many great restaurants in Polanco, but to save time, pause for just a quick bite at either sit down La Casa Del Pastor for street style tacos or at bare bones El Turix for what say is some of the best and most authentic cochinita pibil in the CDMX. After lunch, treat yourself to an ice cream overlooking the park at Neveria Roxy. For dinner, after a long day of touring, La Unica is conveniently next door to Los Alcobas, a bustling, contemporary cantina with a fun ambiance and delicious food, making for a lively night out.
#2: The artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera have always fascinated us. (Before your trip watch Frida, the Hollywood drama starring Salma Hayek.) Get up early and head to Coyoacan where the main attraction is Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s birthplace and lifelong home. Be sure to purchase tickets online in advance as this is one of the city’s most popular attractions, offering a glimpse into Frida’s extraordinary life, her accident and illness, her art, political ties, plus her tempestuous relationship with Rivera. Hungry? Depending on your timed ticket you can go before or after to one of the two food markets in Coyoacan for an early breakfast or snack—the local Mercado de Coyoacán or the more upscale Mercadoroma. After a quick stroll around the main square in town, make the short drive to neighboring San Angel, a picturesque hamlet with beautiful churches, bougainvillea-covered colonial houses, art galleries, and restaurants. We continued our Frida and Diego morning with a visit to their studios, two connecting dwellings that were designed by one of Rivera's contemporaries, architect Juan O'Gorman. Read more about it here. If you didn’t eat before, you can opt to have lunch either at the San Angel Inn or at Carlota.
#3: You can’t visit Mexico City without seeing downtown’s historic center and its massive Zocalo, the central, main square and a gathering place for the city. On the square visit the Metropolitan Cathedral before heading to the National Palace, a must, to see Diego Rivera’s awe-inspiring mural “The History of Mexico.” If you still have energy there’s also the Templo Mayor and the Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes. We highly recommend lunch in the beautiful courtyard of nearby Azul Historico, so atmospheric! Try the Mole Negro, considered perhaps the best in town! Leave some time to browse the upstairs shops after lunch. Foodies don’t miss the Mercado San Juan where if you’re brave you can sample chapulines, toasted grasshoppers, a traditional Mexican snack. Read all about the market here.
Wander: Get lost in Roma, one of the trendier areas of the city. Start in Roma along beautiful Calle Colima, home to boutiques, restaurants, and beautiful colonial houses. One of our favorite finds was the multi-level Roma Quince, a concept store with many different designers in a swoon-worthy townhouse. Off Calle Colima, take a peek at Casa Bosques, an art book store that a friend described as dreamy, shop for clothes and accessories at hipster 180°, and Goodbye Folk. Have an afternoon cocktail at Blanco Colima, a bar and restaurant located in a historic mansion.
Essential Lunch: You can make a reservation only for the early seating at Contramar, jam-packed every day thanks to impeccable seafood from chef Gabriela Camara. Must orders include her legendary tuna tostadas and her Instagram famous grilled pescado a la talla, a split whole fish with one side a red adobo representing Mexico and the other a green parsley rub an homage to the Italian side of the chefs family.
Foodie Find: Book dinner reservations as soon as you make your flights at Pujol or Quintonil, two of the world's best restaurants, but don't fret if you can't get in—one of our favorite meals of the trip was at Raiz. The concierge assured us that though under the radar, it was his favorite spot stating "their passion for Mexican food and their considerable knowledge of worldwide cuisine, makes this restaurant one of the best in town! A must try! "
Late-Night Cocktails: Condesa is the hip place to go after dinner and sip Mezcal. There are many popular bars and clubs in the area, but we were told by many to go to La Clandestina, a dark and moody bar with glowing red mezcal barrels. It’s an excellent way for first-timers or seasoned experts to try a variety of different mezcal.
Taylor’s List: A well-traveled friend shares her notes from a recent trip
Hotel Condesa - So cute, really good drinks / snacks on rooftop
Paramo – Great restaurant in Condesa for tacos / drinks
Casa Franca - Rad jazz club with live music
Contramar – The tuna tostada will ruin your life
Luis Barragan – The house of the Mexican Architect where art meets design and science. We did the Spanish tour as all the English tours were full and we were still were blown away.
Mama Rumba – For salsa dancing
Pastillo de Humo – Had a bomb breakfast, chilaquiles were fab
Goodbye Folk - amazing vintage / leather store
Huset - Viney magical wonderland on Colima
Churreria El Moro – I didn’t try them but everyone I was with was freaking out about these churros
Castillo de Chapultepec - beautiful castle / art museum in the center of the park
Lardo - Mediterranean restaurant in Condesa, go for breakfast
Pujol - duh
El Pendulo - bar in a bookstore
Pata Negra - bar with live music
